Vickermann & Stoya - Wunderschuhe

Vickermann & Stoya of Baden-Baden

We may count Vickermann & Stoya amongst our very dearest German friends. Remember them from Bespoke Germany? Our German operative considers their handmade shoes the best in the Bundesrepublik.

'Tell me more about them, Tweedy. I know very little and my schoolboy German is a little rusty and lacking in technical shoemaking vocabulary,' asks A. Reader.

Proud to Mr. Reader.

I've been in touch with V & S and we now have a little more gen. The photos that accompany this article may attest to the level of craftsmanship you should expect from their shoes. Look at those boots above. I think I'm developing a 'thing' for hook fasteners.

The Vickermann & Stoya Way

Established in 2004, Vickermann & Stoya wish to be seen as craftsmen, their business a welcoming workshop. They produce 25 pairs of shoes a month tailored to the wearer.

Their intensive procedure to create a tailored pair of shoes:

• An orthopaedic impression is made of the foot to accurately represent the contours, outline and pressure points.
• The heel, ankle, instep, ball and toes are measured.
• The profile of the foot is traced.
• The customer chooses a a model for the shape of the last and the material to use.
• The last is built and strips of the material are cut and built around the last.
• A leather lining is added.
• Hemp yarn is used to sew the upper layers and create extremely tight seams.
• A cork insole, leather mid-sole, outer sole and heel is added to complete the structure.
• The shoe is finished with polishing and waxing.

Shoe Care Course

V & S also offer shoe care courses. Shining shoes and drinking beer seems like a jolly nice way to pass the time. I want one of those green aprons.

Exotic Footwear

Vickermann & Stoya offer an extensive range of exotic leathers, including ray (above) and the pimply ostrich (as seen on the gloves below).

Vickermann & Stoya's Shoe Tips

V & S offer some tips for keeping your shoes in tip-top condition.

• Use a shoehorn so you don't knacker the heel.
• Use shoe trees to draw moisture from the shoes after wearing. Must be unvarnished cedar or beech.
• Lay shoes on the sides to dry if the leather soles are wet. (I read that rubbing a 1/2 potato on a leather sole would stop you slipping in the wet. Anyone tried that?)

Matching Gloves

Francis Bown would approve of this: V & S also make gloves to match your shoes. Some nice tan ostrich numbers here.

Tweedy's Germany

More articles on Germany.